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I made up my mind that we really needed to take our Australian friend Diana out and about to see some local sites. So I planned a route, heading towards Cassino, taking the scenic road via Campodimele and Pico.
However, in my moment of enthusiasm (or was it madness ?) I had forgotten to take into consideration, the tortuous ascending route, with numerous vertiginous hairpin bends, that leads up to the abbey of Montecassino.
This could be considered challenging even for some confident drivers, especially when you find a bus coming at you on the wrong side of the road !!!) I was somewhat relieved as we neared to top and the Abbey finally came into vision. After a huge sigh of relief I slowly managed to prize my white knuckled hands away from the steering wheel.
I was wearing a sundress, so I donned a cardigan, as to be allowed into the Abbey you must be respectful in wearing appropriate clothing, ie shoulders must be covered, and mini-skirts and “mini” shorts are definitely frowned upon.
As you enter the Abbey you first walk through a peaceful cloister and standing in the centre of the garden is a bronze statue depicting the death of St Benedict.
From the balcony on the lower section there is a stunning panoramic view of the Liri Valley and to the right, on a hillside, the Polish Cemetery.
A wide stone staircase steps lead up to a higher cloistered area and the facade of the grand Basilica.
The inside of the Basilica is incredibly ornate and lavishly decorated with beautiful examples of intricate inlaid marble, gilded plasterwork and frescoes.
A vaulted stairway leading down to the crypt is adorned with tiny blue and gold mosaic tiles, and the chapels are also opulently embellished with beautiful mosaics.
There is a museum which houses many of the abbey’s ancient treasures (please note that this is only open on Sundays during the winter months).
There are also two shops where you can purchase souvenirs and herbal remedies and preparations made by the monks.
Nowadays, it hard to believe that this beautiful tranquil location was once the site of a fierce battle that raged during 1944, resulting in the abbey being virtually destroyed.
Click here for more details of Montecassino and the Gustav Line.
For more information and photos of the Abbey and Montecassino please take a look at our website: http://cassino.shapcott-family.com
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I (Louie) have been beavering away on the old computer.
Using my own photos I have now put together 2 Video / Slideshows.
Please do take a look ………..
One is dedicated to :
Our “Tre Cancelle” Farmhouse Holiday Apartments
The second is about this interesting region of South Lazio
that we are so lucky to now live in :
I hope this will give you an idea
of what beauty surrounds us here at
“Tre Cancelle”
For more details about our 2 Farmhouse Holiday Apartments
and other local Holiday Villas available to rent,
please go to our Website at :
http://trecancelle.shapcott-family.com
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Very recently we welcomed a trio from America, Patrick, Kathy and Rita, who came to this area searching for more information on a particular time in their family’s history.
Patrick and Kathy were trying to retrace their father’s journey through Italy as a soldier in the US 88th “Blue Devil” Division.
Patrick is currently writing a book about his father’s experiences during this period. His father sent home many descriptive letters to his new bride, who he had only married the day before his departure from America.
Charles Logan was just 22 years old when he was drafted into the army and sent to fight in Italy along the infamous GUSTAV Line. His Division disembarked at Naples and was then transported to the town of Piedimonte d’Alife (now known as Piedimonte Matesse) for combat training.
The 88th was then sent to the GUSTAV Line, on the western flank of the main Fifth Army, to relieve the 5th British Division in the Minturno area in Operation Diadem. The 88th “Blue Devils”, encountering stiff German resistance, took part in a particularly bitter and bloody battle, which lasted almost 3 days, to seize the village of Santa Maria Infante.
The capture of this position on the 14th May 1944, proved to be a defining moment, finally breaking through the GUSTAV line and forcing a German retreat.
The French Expeditionary Corps of Morrocan Goumiers*, who were skilled in mountain warfare, continued to make their way forward over the seemingly impassable terrain of the Aurunci Mountains, while the 88th surged ahead, taking the seaward facing villages of Spigno Saturnia, Castellonorato, Trivio, Maranola, then on through Formia, Itri, Fondi, Monte San Biagio to Roccagorga.
Continuing northward some of the 88th Divison made contact with Allied units breaking out of the Anzio beach-head on 29th May and they were the first to enter Rome on the 4 June 1944.
We had the great pleasure of acting as Patrick’s guide and driver during their stay, and we visited Cassino and Montecassino and many of the above mentioned towns and villages, travelling some 500 miles during the week.
We learned so much about the historical significance of these places through this traumatic period of the Second World War. From the picturesque little villages that we see today, it is hard to imagine what it would have been like for the local people and the opposing Allied forces during this terrible time.
The Italians had suffered greatly under German occupation, having to endure persecution, reprisals and famine. Prior to their liberation these villages also had endured heavy land and naval bombardments by the Allied forces which resulted in catastrophic damage, and hundreds of innocent civilian deaths and casualties.
* Yet there was more suffering to come – The French General Alphonse Juin, before the final battles to the breach the German GUSTAV line, he was said to have promised the Morrocan Goumier troops the following:
“For 50 hours you will be the absolute masters of what you will find beyond the enemy. Nobody will punish you for what you will do, nobody will ask you about what you will get up to.”
When the Goumiers swarmed over the mountain villages they subjected thousands of Italian women and even young girls to merciless violence and rape, and reportedly any men who fought to save their wives and daughters from harm were ruthlessly murdered.
A novel, “La Ciociara”, was penned, based on this subject of mass rape, by the author Alberto Moravia. This was subsequently made into a film also called “La Ciociara” or ”Two Women”, directed by Vittorio de Sica, and starred Sophia Loren. In 1960, for this role, she was awarded an Academy Award for Best Actress.
We would just like to wish Patrick Logan good luck with the writing of his book about his father’s war time experiences, and we very much look forward to the book’s publication.
We would be interested to hear from anyone else who had family members who fought in Italy during World War II, along this area of the German GUSTAV Line.
For more information about some of the towns and villages in SOUTH LAZIO that were positioned along the GUSTAV Line, please click on the following links:
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On the evening of Good Friday we had booked to have a special meal with Mike and Mary, as a late celebration of our Wedding Anniversary at an unusual little restaurant, “La Pulcinella”, in the historic centre of Itri. As we walked up the cobbled steps we saw that preparations were underway for the “Processione del Cristo Morto”.
After our welcoming aperitif of chilled Prosecco served with a fresh strawberry we were ushered up through the beautifully renovated olive mill to our table. Whilst you can chose from a menu, we chose to let the restaurant follow in their tradition, in which they bring customers a selection of tempting Neapolitan mini-dishes to sample, instead of a single starter, not unlike tapas. These were numerous, very interesting, unusual and plentiful, with so many different flavours.
We then heard strains of music being played by the town’s brass band, which proceeded the procession. This brought a not unwelcome pause to the meal as everyone, staff and customers, went outside to watch the proceedings.
The solemn procession of the priest and people bearing torches and candles slowly filed down the narrow passageway, groups of men dressed in white cassocks and black sashes reverently carried the statue of the Dead Christ and that of the Virgin Mary dressed in black.
The procession periodically paused and the participants sombrely recited prayers before moving on along the route. The procession seemed to be unending as the faithful continued to flow down the steps. It was a moving experience to witness and seemed even more poignant in the wake of the recent terrible tragedy in L’ Aquila.
We returned to our meal, where we decided to pass on the pasta course and move directly onto the “secondo” which naturally with it being Good Friday, comprised solely of fish, which was absolutely delicious. Just three of us managed to move on to the delectable dessert course, before opting to stagger home for some coffee. We would highly recommend this unusual little restaurant to anyone who likes to tantalise their tastebuds. La Pulcinella website.
La Pulcinella, comes from the Naples area, and is one of the clown figures from the “Commedia dell’Arte”, a theatre form dating from the 16th century. The name Pulcinella was Anglicised to Punchinella who became better known as Mr Punch.
Today, Easter Sunday, Italians rejoice at the resurrection of Christ and people gather together to share in a special family meal. Traditional desserts include “Pastiera”, which is a rustic sweet ricotta pie, typical of Naples and “Columba” cake, which is similar in composition to a Christmas Panetone, but is baked in the shape of a dove, signifying peace.
White Dove of Peace at Montecassino, April 2009
Well, may we take this opportunity to wish you, one and all
A Happy Easter / Buona Pasqua
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On our way to Atina, we decided to first take Mike and Mary to see the spectacular Abbey of Montecassino and then proceeded to drive on through Caira and up towards the village of Terelle. Near here we halted for a tasty little picnic, blessed with panoramic views of the snow-capped Abruzzi mountains and the wide expanse of the verdant Cassino valley that stretched below.
Terelle
We began to make our gradual descent, passing through Terelle’s magnificient chestnut woods which are said to be the most beautiful in all of Lazio. The largest chestnut tree has a circumference of 12 metres and the oldest is 800 years old. On the second Sunday of November a well-known Sagra delle Castagne or Chestnut Festival takes place in Terelle. Here there is the opportunity to eat the local roasted chestnuts and desserts and cakes made of them and sample other such delicacies such as wild boar, local hams, sausages, cheeses, bread, polenta, beans, mushrooms, and try a sip or two of the local Cesanese wine.
We continued our descent passing beautiful vistas of the picturesque village of Belmonte Castello which appears to cling to and wind its way around the rock spur on which it stands.
Belmonte Castello
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My late mother’s cousin Sarkis and his wife Margaret arrived at “Tre Cancelle” for a fortnight’s stay. We were really looking forward to seeing them, as three years had passed since we had last got together, and we always much enjoyed their good company. During their stay we took them out and about locally and they visited both Rome and Pompei. However they also kindly insisted in helping us to make a start at clearing up the mountain of olive prunings that littered our groves.
The Abbey at Montecassino
On the Sunday afternoon we were invited to meet up with “The Family” in Atina. However first we drove up the steep and tortuous road that steadily winds its way up to the summit of Montecassino. From here there are splendid views of the town of Cassino below and of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The Abbey we have now visited on several occasions, yet I still find myself in awe of the history and grandeur of the place. The monastery was founded by San Benedetto in 525 and was renowned through the ages as a place of holiness, culture and art.
During the final stage of World War II, Montecassino lay on the firing lines between the Germans and the advancing Allied Forces. The Germans had set up a defence line known as the GUSTAV Line, and Montecassino formed one of its most potent strongholds. The mountain dominates the surrounding countryside including the Liri Valley that runs through the mountains to the North, and the main road that links the South with Rome and in addition provided a perfect crow’s view of the town of Cassino below. The Allied governments accused the Germans of using the Monastery as a stronghold, which the Germans categorically denied. However, the tenacious Germans were well dug into caves that they had been blasted into the rock on the slopes of the mountain.
The town of Cassino was first bombed on the 10th September 1943 when targets along the Garigliano River were hit. This caused heavy civilian casualties, and some local people took refuge in the Monastery. The next assault on the Cassino Front was planned for the 15th February 1944. Many local people once again took refuge in what they believed to be the sanctuary of the Abbey. The bombing then began in earnest. In three hours of bombardment the monastery was reduced to a heap of rubble and ruins and many Italians met their death. Two of my mother’s cousins were killed during the bombing of nearby Atina. Soon there was uproar from all round the world at the destruction of this holy bastion.
British Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery, Cassino
The fighting at Montecassino continued to rage for several months, and many more lives were lost before the Allies finally captured the German positions. Montecassino was finally liberated on the 18th May 1944, and the Allies could then continue their march towards Rome. After the war the Abbey was rebuilt according to its original design, and brought back to its former glory, the reconstruction and decoration works taking more than a decade to complete. In all, more than 30,000 soldiers lost their lives at Cassino and many are buried there in the nearby British, French, Polish, German and Italian Military Cemeteries.
Later we drove down to the foot of Montecassino to find the British Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery, the grounds of which are lovingly and meticulously tended in memory of the fallen soldiers. Here in this tranquil sanctuary more than 4200 brave young men now slumber in eternal peace, overlooked by the abbey from aloft.
Click Here To Read another Blog Entry Regarding The Battles Along The Gustav Line
Click Here For More information about Cassino and Montecassino and surrounding area
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